Santa Maria della Scala

On Tuesday, after a very difficult Italian test in the morning, I was excited to tour Santa Maria della Scala with my Art/Architecture class. This used to be Siena’s hospital – but it was much more than that, and became a self-sufficient town within Siena, complete with streets, a granary, apartments etc. As a hospital, it was very modern for the 15^th century – we saw frescoes depicting the hospital and its functions. For instance, sheets were changes twice a week (very hygienic for that time) and doctors examined (and tasted! yuck) urine. However, the hospital was also a hostel for pilgrims to have a free place for food/bedding on their way to Jerusalem, which is how Santa Mara grew up so big. Plus, it spent the equivalent of three castles to buy a “nail from the Cross” as a relic, thereby attracting even more pilgrims and gathering donations. Through these donations, they were able to maintain an orphanage. Frescoes also depicts scenes from the orphanage, and it incredible learning about their modern ideas for charity too. During medieval times, orphanages solely provided food and bedding for the orphans, so when they turned 18, they were out on the streets again – to either enter the church as a nun or priest, become criminals, or prostitutes. However, Santa Maria not only provided basic needs for their orphans, but they also provided schooling. Boys learned to read and write, and could easy get a job when they were 18 – usually at Santa Maria. Girls were taught a trade and were provided with a dowry to marry. Another interesting aspect of touring Santa Maria was seeing the underground parts – where the city and apartments existed. Since Santa Maria was self-sufficient, they produced everything they needed on-sight, including sheets for the hospital with the Santa Maria “logo.” Beneath it, is a city with streets running through it – and parts of it have been excavated so we could walk around. Parts were very creepy, however. For instance, they had many Brotherhoods, which were essentially volunteers for the hospital but picture a fraternity house. These Brotherhoods had skulls on the entrances with warnings, and contained rooms for lounging around, a chapel, meeting rooms, and a place for their relics (aka secrets) – and this was all underground. It was dark and decorated very morbidly, like what I would imagine a fraternity house during initiation would be like. In another section, we saw a huge pile containing bones – even more creepy! These were all from the Black Plague, when Siena was reduced from 50,000 to 15,000 people, and most died in this hospital. In addition, this area has been turned into an archaeological museum, so we saw Etruscan tombs and urns. It was a very good class, and it was amazing that this was all right next to Siena’s Duomo.

Today (Wednesday) has been a typical day of classes, but what was interesting is that during our Art/Architecture lecture, we learned about Caravaggio and his influence on Siena’s painters. When we toured the Uffizi this Sunday, they were having a special Caravaggio exhibit – so the lecture was very pertinent! In addition, it was free gelato day through CET – always making for a great end to the day! Unfortunately today my throat has been hurting a lot, so at dinner tonight, Lino and Stella poured me a glass of red wine calling it “Italy’s disinfectant”! Stella also made me her “Bedtime tea,” like she always does whenever any of us doesn’t feel 100%. So buona notte!